Buttonhole-sewing machine.



PATENTED DEC. 31, 1907- I W. N. PARKB'S. BUTTONHOLB SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION I'ILED DEC. 17.1900.

6 SHEETS-SHEET).

PATENTED DEC. 31, 1907.

W. N. PARKBS. BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION TILED DEC. 17. 1900.

s SHEETS-552m 2.

PATBNTED DEC. 31, 1907.

w. N. PARKES. BUTTONHOLB SEWING MACHINE.

APPLIOATIOH FILED D30. 17. 1900.

6 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

mm. Q3 ms 5 w PATENTED DEC. 31, 1907.

W. N. PARKES.

EWING MACHINE.

BUTTONHOLB S APPLIOATIOH FILED D30. 17, I900.

8 SHEBTS-SHBET 4.

Eweiai'or PATENTBD' nrz, 21, 1901- W. N- PARKES. BUTTONHQLB SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION nun mm 1'! 1900 8 SHEETS-SKIP 6.

' P'ATBNTED D30. 31, 1567.

W. N. PARKES. BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLIOATIOB FILED DBO. 1?. 1900.

B SHEETS-SHEET l.

IIIIIIV% W in (km-5' ea UNI-TED 'sTArrEs PATENT OFFICE.

" WILLIAM N. PnRKES, or BROOKLYN, New YORK.

'iw'r'romronn-snwme mourns.

Specifidation of Letters Patent. application filed December 17.190 sum No. 40.145

1m 876,602. rima'imm, 1 907.

same; 3 is a top plan on the line a::::, Fig. 2; Fig. 4 is a rear end view; Tig. 5 is a citizen of the United States, and a resident of section, some parts removed, on Huey- Brooklyn, in the county of Kings and State F ig: 3, looking in direction of the arrowj Fig. 60 5 of New York, have invented certain new and 6 is a section on the line z-z, Fig. 2 looking useful Improvements in Buttonhole-Sewing in direction of the arrow; Fig. 7 IS a vertical Machines, of which the following is a specifi section on the line w'w, F' 3 8, 9 and cation. 10 are sectional details on ine u-*u, Fig. 3, g This invention relates to button-hole-sew looking in the direction of the arrow; Figsll 65 i 10 ing machines and has for its main objects and 12 aresectional details on line 19-21, Fig. improved means for automatically and si- 3, looking in the direction'of the arrow, of the multaneously stitching both sides of the buttripping device in connection with the her- -ton hole, improved means for automatically ring or tacking ratchet-wheel; FIS-and 14 I barring or tacking the end thereof, and imare details showing means for regulatingand 30 15 prove means for automatically stopping the controllin the feed of the work during the machine. l tacking'of a buttonhole; Figs. 15, 16, 17 and 'In describing my improved .machine the 18 are details ,in connection with the mechvarious mechanisms'of which it is composed anism for operating the loopers; Fig. 19 is a will be taken up in the following order:'1st a top lah view of the loopers and vibrating 15 20 work carrier feeding mechanism adapted to mec anism therefor; Fig. 20 is a diagramfeed the work different predetermined exmatic view of the buttonhole, Fig. 21 is an.

tents without'interfering oreffecting the end view of. cam-drum SEQ-looking in the di-' barring at the ends of .the holes; 2nd a work rectionvopposi'te that indicated by the arrow- 'carrier adapted to beoperated by the said at line -u-u in 3. ,80

25 feeding mechanismg3rd means for returning All the partsand mechanism of my mathe said work carrier to its initial position chine are supported on a head com rising u between the stitching or finishing of onebutthe arm A, and the bed, or cloth, p ate 3.. w .tcn-hole, and. the beginning of'an ther; 4th The driving shaft mayv be journaled, a5 stitchforming mechanism adapte to coop usual, in the overhanging ortion of the arm, 85 t crate-with the said feedingmechanism to and an under, or driven,s aft C, is journaled simultaneously stitch both sides of the buton the bottom of the bed B.

ton hole; 5th barring or tacking mechanism I will now describe the mechanism that'I adapted to bar the ends of the.button-hole'; provide for .feeding the work. carrier, dur- 6th means whereby the said barring mechmg the stitching of the sides of the holes. 90

f anism controls the feed of the' work durin At the rear end of the base of the arm A, in

" the said barring of the ends of the holes j 7th suitable bearings, is mounted a shaft 1, to means whereby the barring mechanism is the rear end of which. is attached a'feed brought into engagement with its actuator ratchet-wheel 2. To the rear end of the from the movement of. a part of the feedshaft C is attached an eccentric 3, which op- 95 40 mechanism; 8th a stop motion mechanism crates between jawsformed on the lower end adapted to be tripped into action by the of a segment-lever pivoted to the bedbarring mechanism, and'9'th means whereby late. in the npper end of the segmentthe said stop motion is tripped into action ever 4, is formed a way 5, in which one end by the said barring mechanism. of a link 6, is adjustably connected, the other 100,

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, WILLIAM N. PARKES, a

I will be described in the order mentioned will-be seen in the description'and in the- After the usual brief description of thedrawings has been. made,- the .mechanism above, and after the said mechanisms have been described the workings of the machine will be explained. Various detailed objects of the invention claims. l.

ngte the drawings: Figure 1 is a front elevation of a machine embodying my pawl-lever S, which is pivoted on the rear end of the shaft 1.. On the upper end of the pawl-lever 8, is pivoted a pawl 9, which is gap 10, is formed in the teeth of the ratchet wheel 2, and an adjustable toothed segment 11. is a plied so as to vary the extent of said gap.- n the shaft 1. 1S also mounted a moved longitudinally on, and be rotated invention; 2 is a rearelevation ofthe with, the said shaft 1, by means of feather 13,

end of the link 6, being connected at 7, to 5* adapted to engage the ratchet-wheel 2. A 10 clutch-member 12. which is oriented to be .110

tit-description of the time nc.

which extends intoifway, see Fig. 6, formed In the member 12.

movementby means of a flange or collar us" forward on the shaft. 1, the member 16,"co

agitating with the member .12, as hereinr described. with the segmental-gear 17, which '5 iived to the rear end of the shaft 18, mounted to turn in suitable bearings attached to the bed B. The diameter of'the segmental-gear 17, is to the diameter ofthe gear-wheel l4, as 2 to 1, thus gear 12' and shaft 18 has only one-half the speed of gear 14. To the forward end of the shaft 1S,is attached a. gear-wheel 19, see Figs. '2, 3'and 7' which is adapted to operate the work carrier.

The way 5,'is formed in the segment lever 4, concentric with thepoint or pivot when the said pivot is moved to its extreme rearward position or when the eccentric is moved to'a position which moves the upper end of the lever 4 to its extreme rearward position. By this formation of the way 5 the pawl 9 commences its forward or functional stroke at a given point or position no' matter what the extent oi'the stroke of the said pawl 9 may be. The segment 11 is always tinjusted so that the pawl 9 just crosses the gap 1 0 in the teeth of the ratchet wheel 2 engaging the first tooth across the said gap. The object of the above construction of the way 5 and the said gap It) in the teeth of the'whcel 2, is to cause the pawl 9 to commence to move the wheel 2 forward at predetermined points in the cycle of 'movement of .the' said wheel and consequently to commence to move the mechanism operatedb the said wheel 2 forward at predetermined, points no matter what the extent of the stroke ofvthe pawl 9 maybe. I

The gap 10 in the ratchet wheel 2 is especially for the purpose of maintaining the'position of the teeth of the ratchet wheel rela.-

stroke 4 teeth of the said wheel. X ow suppose the wheel 2 is turned inadvertently or. otherwise forward 2 teeth then when the said gap in the teeth of the wheel comes under the pawl, it clear that the strokeof the pawl in the gap will be idle 2 teeth and will only move the wheel forward to the extent of. two teeth. The next stroke of the pawl will engage the first tooth acrossthe gap 10. and the wheel will again move forward in the proper time.

The foregoing is the mechanism provided for feeding tire work carrier but it is to be UiziiiISt-OOd that the said mechanism erfOX'lUS functions other than the feeding of the work carrier as will be seen from the further The par s 3 to 4 A gear-wheel l -i, having a body 15, and clinch-member 16, is mount-- so to turn, but 18 held from longitudinal The gear-wheel 1 i, meshes 19 inclusive may .be said to constitute the work'carrier feeding mechanism. 1 will now describe the construction of work carrier.

A rack .20 is attached to a slide 21. which forms the lower member of the saio workc-arrier'and which member is mounted in, and confined by suitable bea rings, or guides. so as to reciprocate longitudinally only of the button-hole or transversely only of the bed B and has an extending end 3;. whit-bis suitably slotted or aperiured to permit of the operation of the needles thcrethrmtgh. ()n the rear end of the slide 21, is formed a downwardly extending portion 23, through which passes a screw .24, the outer or l'rctend of which is adapted to engage with an abutment 25, located in a bearing 26, a-ttacliet'i to the bed of the machine. The abutment 2.5. and the screw .24, constitute an adjustable stop. and serve as means for limiting the movement of the slide 21, in the direction shown by I110 arrow in Fig. 7. the aburm' -ut may be composed of any suitable titan-rial for the purpose. To the rear and upper end of the slide 21. is attached -a bttllllrl 27. which overhangs tliaslide 21, and to which is attached a flat plate-spring 25 which forms -:1 part of the upper member of the work-carcarry shoesadaptcd to engage and clamp the work to the part 22 of the member 2], ol' the workcarrier. An ordinary presser-ba r 31. is mounted in suitable hearings in the head of the machine and is'depressed by a usual presser-bar spring. A prcsser-foot 32. is illtached; in a suitable manner. to tnc' lower end of the presser-bar 31. T he prcsser-l'oot is bifurcated into the downwardiy extendingportions 33 and 34, in which are pivoted it) turn rollers 35 and 36, respectively, which are adapted to engage, by rolling contact, the extending portions 29 and 30. of th upper member 28, of the work carrier.

1 have now described the parts of the work carrier, and the means for operating the same during the stitching of a button hole and the said work carrierand the means for operating it may be said to constitute thiwork feeding mechanism. The lower membar ,of the work carrier may be said to be the work is composed of parts 31 to 36 ii\- elusive it being understood that an ordinary presser bar spring beforg mentioned but not' shown serves as a means for depressing the said presser bar 31. The flat spring 2% is so constructed that it lifts the upper member of the work-carrier to disengage the work when the presser bar is lifted the upward tendency direction of the len at op osite side's into athe c utch-member 12.

4'0. formed in a bearing 51, in the bed B, of

. th machine, the eient depth to permit 0 the free action of the election reverse the Iiien't 17, and the-gear-\ \'heel 14, until the end position.

40. f'which isbil'urcated, see Figs. 2 and 6, are at vend of the presser-bar TBJSC the same.

-de'pendin.g from the slide 21.

and 56,'arranged inline at emcee of the said spring being very light or just enough for the purpose of lifting the upper member from the work. The --presser bar spring is strong enou h to depress the upper member of the work c amp and thereby cause ie same to firmly clamp the work. The anti-friction rollers 35 and 36 permit the free movementof the clamp'under the pressure of the prcsser bar. The work clamp has no lateral movement it is simply moved in the gth of the'butt-on-hole. will now describe the means by which, as the work clamp is opened and the work released the work carrier is automatically reversed or. returned. to its initial or. original To the rear side of the hanging arm A, is suitably bell-crank lever 38, havin To.the lower end 0 the member 40.

tached roller-studs and r0 ers which extend The member 39, is ormed as at 42, and adapted to be enga ed by a roller 43,.wliich is suitably attached to a rod 4 4.- The rod tached 'toa'hori'zontal lever 45,which is pivoted at 46, toa bearing formed on the; arm A. The forward end of the lever 45, nected, in a suita'ble manner, to the upper 31, and is adapted to To the lower end of the rod 44, is attached a chain 47, which extends downwardly to a suitable foot-lever (not shown) which is thus adapted to depress the rod 44, and throu h it the connected end of lever 45, and there y raise the'presser-bar 31. A spiral spring-48, is attached at 49,-to a stu extendingverticallyin the receptacle rece tacle being of sullispring.- Said spring 48, has an extending end -52, which engages a stud or hearing 53, The spring 48, is so constructed and located that its extending end 52, normally presses and, under proper conditions, moves the slide 21, in the directionj'shown by the arrow, see Fig. 3, and isof sufficient strength to move said slide in such direction and through its conshaft 18, the gear-segof the screw 24, comes into engagement with the abutment 25. The said mechanism justdescribed by means of which the work carrier is automatically reversed as the work is re .-.leased from the machine by the operator,

may c said toicomprise the parts 37 to 52in elusive,

I will now mechanism.

A needle-bar 54, adapted to carry needles a right-ang le 64, 1s formed'in the base of the over-. 'nected.

pivoted at 37, a members 39and:

' of connection of It will be understood that, when the ma? the segment-lever 62, groove 41, formed n1 lever is vibrated,

is con-i describe the stitch-forming 3 to thedirection of mounted in a usual A pitman '59,- is'attached'at its end to a lever '60, right portion of the arm A, as shown in 'dot- .ted outline, Fig. 1. -A segment-lever "62, is connected at .its upper end to .a shortshaft 63, extending transversely bf, and to turn in a suitable bearing on, the arm A, the-lever eing 1r. enga ement at its lower end with a usual switc 1-C3-111 (not shown) mounted on the upper shaft of the machine. Away segment-lever 62, in

which runs. a usual sliding shoe having conhe upper end of the lever 60, at the point pitman 69 see Fig. 1..

chine is in operation, is vibrated. and, through the link 66, the and through the pitman '59, the needleba r gateSTis vibrated, and

through it'the needle-ban 54, is bodily vi-'- 44,at its upper end, is atb rated. laterally. The movement given to he feed of the work. is' gate57, pivoted 'in suit. able bearings toot shown) inthe arm of the machine.

forward end to the gate 57, and at its rear pivoted at 61 m the up to it, at 65, the forward end of a link the needle-bar by'thismechanism is'the.

usual jogging motion given to needle-bars 1n zigzag or bu ttonhole sewing machines.

o the forward end of the shaft 0 is attached'a gear-wheel 67, which meshes with a gear-wheel 68, attached 18 mounted in the bed B.

to a shaft 69, which bearing 7 O, on the bottom of The gear-wheel 67, is twice the iamcter of gear-wheel 68, which ratio causes two rotations of shaft 69. to one rotation oi. shaft. G. he resultL of this difference in speed between the two shaftsfithe driven shaft C rotating in the same time with, and having the same number of rotations as, the ma in d riving, or needle-bar actuating, shaft, is to cause the loopers, of the stitch-forming mechanism, to have two rotations toa single and ever reciprocation of the needles. bevel-gear 71, is attached to the shaft 69, and meshes with a bevel-gear 72- mounted on an upright shaft 73, which is adapted to turn in caring 7 0. To the forward end of the shaft 69, is attached a bevel-gear73*, whichmeshes with a bevel-gear 74, mounted on a vertical shaft 75, which is ada ted to turn, in bearing 70. To. the upper en of each of the shafts 73 and 75 is has a \va 77, formed across 'its face. to'the disk 76,

an idle disk 78, having a feather 79, formed ext attached a disk 76, which and on the top of the same, is

across its bottom, which is adapted to ride inthe way 77. Feat-her 80, is formed across the in its bottom ii1.wl1ich the fea'thenSO, lextends. The upper portion of the lo'opercarrier 81, is re need as at 82. Lev er 83, 1s

a way. formed pivoted to a suitable hearing at t. 'l'hc levers are t'lll:tt',' [(tl,ttiat N5. and c|ico|ii t-.-iss i the reduced portion SL2. oi the luinF-t'ttllltl L To the topoi the hmpcr-carrier is .ittachcd 6 a iooper 86, which may be o2 any suitable construction o engage the loop ot the needlethread. The loopers as shown are the same diameter as the large portionoi the di k it,

. thus providing a means tor retaining the to levers 23, on the reduced portions! of the loop carriers. v

The connection as described between the shaft 73, and the looper S6, is tor the purpose of permitting the iooper carrier to be moved horizontally in any direction. The idle disk 78, may move across the .aceot the disk 76, in the direction of the groove 77', and the looper-carrier 81, may move across the lace of the idle (liSK TS in a direction at right angles to the groove 77, thus it is seen that the looper-earrier 81, may be given a universal movement. For example while the looper-carrier Si is moved at right'angles to the groove 77, it may also be moved in the" direction of said groove the idle disk 78 moving with the looper-carrier when the same is moved in the direction of the groove 77. The outer end of each ot the levers S3, is provided with a ball .84, connecting with one end of a pitman 87, the rear end ol which is connected to a lever 89, suitably pivoted at S8, to the vertical ortion oi the arm A ot the machine, as in icated in dotted outline see Fig. 1. A stud 90, is attached to the upper end of the lever 89, and carries a shoe 91. which is adapted to operate between jaws .92, formed on the lower end of the lever 60.

It is to be understood that the movement of the lever 62 is transmitted by means of link 66 to lever 60, and irom the"lever 60 to the lever 89, and irom the lower end oi the lever 89 by. means of link or pitman S7 to the levers 83. When the lever 62 moves to the rightthe link 59, moves to the right and the needle-bar gate of course moves in the same direction thereby moving the needles to the. right, and by reason of the double'lever con- Y nection GOand 898ml the link 87 the loopcrs are also moved to the right, and whenthe needles are moved to the lett the loopers like-wise are moved to the left. This will be clearly understood byret'crencc to Fig. l. The levers 60, S9 andSIi, and the parts in connection with the some a re so proportioned and z--oiist.i'lictezi that the loop takers are given the same extent t lateral movement as the needles under any :nljustment oi the link 66 inthe way of the lever 62. 4

The stitch forming mechanism has now been ilcs ribcil the means l'or. :giving the needle lateral movement of a uniform ex- I tent. and the loopers lateral movement ol'g 1;,- can grunt in unison w th the said not-dies has been included in ihc sald tit h g fencing mechanism. g

' cum.

The mechanism that has just been described t'or tlmYlltgiltc needle-bur and loop-- l ct's laterally acts to make the dept h and edge stitches along the sides of the butt n hole,

and us such stitches are necessary in the stitching of button holes. this mechanism is included in the stitch l'orniing mechanism. The stitch forming mechanism may be said to include the parts 54 to'HLZ inclu ive. barring mechanism will now be described.

In a bracket 93. which is attached to the top of thebed-phtte B, is secured by means of a screw 94, one end of a cylindrical bear ing 95. which extends horizontally from the said bracket, see Fig. 6, and through which the forward end of shaft 1 extends and is free to turn therein. Next to the bracket 93, on the extending portion of the cylindrical bearing 95, is journaled the upper end of a pawl-lever 96, which carries a pawl 97. The pawl-lever 98 is operated by means of a connection 98, which extends to and encircles in a usual manner an eccentric mounted on the lower shaft C of the machine, these parts being partially shown in Fig. 2, the construction of the said eccentric and the manner of driving the pawl 96 is clearly illustrated in my Patent 6585578 Button-hole sewing machine issued to me September th 1900 (see Fig. 4 of said patent). As the means for driving the pawl (Hi are the same as shown in the said patent it is not thought necessary to illustrate the same further in this application. ()n the bearing 95 is mounted to turn a ct'nn-drunt tit), groove 100 being formed therein and to the end of said cam is adjustably attached, by means of screws 10], and curved slots 110, see Figs. 11 and 1'2, :1 ratchet-wheel 102. the teeth of which are adapted to be engaged by the pawl 97. In the operation of the machine the extent of the stroke of the pawl 97 is one tooth of the ratchet-wheel 101'. Any usual friction device-can be used for controlling the movcment of theratcliet-whwi 102 and the cam 91). in the present instanee I have partly shownfiin Figs. 1. 2, 3 and ti, the following meansfor controlling the said wheel and cam. in a groove 103 formed in the cam 99, is located .a friction-strap 104, having extensions 105 and 106. A screw 10? passes freely through eitension 105 into a seat in extension 106. 1 This screw" serves as a means for regulating the amountof the friction betwe n the strap and the usual spring (Lot shown) is attached to the underside of the extension M and to a stationary part of the machine, .o as to draw on the strap in the direction opiosite to the forward movement of'the cam. n the teeth of the ratchet-wheel 10'. is

formed a 'gap los, see Figs. 11 and 1;. formed bv eliminating one tooth of the Stilt wheel. double toothed top'pziwl 109 is suitably pivoted to a stationarypart of the The I "machine in evapoe position to engagethe teeth of and prevent retrograde move- Slots 110 permit ofthe circular adjustmentof the wheel 102 by means of the screws 101, this adjustment being to properly locate the teeth of the wheel 102 relatively to the cam-groove 100.

wheel 102 A lever 111 is suitablymivoted on abearing at 112 and is in engagement at its lower end, bymeans ofausual.anti-friction roller 113,

with the cam-groove 100. y

To the upper end of the lever 111 is pivotedthe rear endof a link 11 1, the forward end of which is atttched to the upper end of an arm 115, which is attached at .Lts lower end T to a' shaft 116 mounted to turn in the hori- 'zontal portion of arm-. A of the machine. To the'forward end of the shaft 116 is attached a segment-arm 117, see Fig. 1, which has a curved way 118, formed in its face.

The lower end of a link 119 is attached-in thefway118, the upper end of lever 62 in the way 64 of the segment-lever,

said link being connected to the forward end 01. the link 66. The link119 is formed of two parts and is thereby adapted to be adjusted as to its length by meanspf a screw 120 and a slot 121.

and through it the connect-hm 65 will be moved from and towardsthe pivot of the 62 and that the extent of the said movement will be determined by-t-he position, of the lower end of the link 119, in the way-118, of the segment-arm 117. lt. will also be seen that the reciprocating position of the parts 65 in the way 64 may be changed by the adjustment of the length of the link connection 119 The gap 108 in the wheel 102 is for the purpose of arresting the movement of the said wheel, and the mechanism operated by itwehen the gap comes under the actuating panl 97, 'so that the barring mechanism may be idle during the stitching of the sides of the hole. T his ill be more clearly understood in connectionuith the explanation of the working of the machine. The means pro -vwed tor changing the character of the -stitches at the .end of the-button-hole so as r to form barring stitches have now been describedthese "means may be said to comprise parts'93 to 121 inclusive.

In a button-hole machine it is desirable to have the feeding of-the work uniform, and of a predetermined extent, ann to have the stitches'along the sides of the'hole spaced apredeterniined extent and to have this move- "Inent maintained under different-adjust 'ment'of the length of the button-hole. It1s also desirable to have the work moved .a pie determined extent'during the barring of theends of. the button-hole, a imimte this movement of the work maintained "under s difierent adjustment of the lengthi hi the but;

5 .ton-h o le;'or difierent extent of spacing along.

adj ustably' It \villno'w be seen. that if the lever 111 is oscillated, the shaft 116 a ill be rocked which starts the barrin the sides of the button-hole. For the'purpose of accomplishing the results desired,

the barring mechanisms which I have 'u st describedls adapted .to'control the fee piechanism during the barring of the button- .ole.

anism will now be described.

These means provided for controlling the Teeding mechanism by the barring'mecl'i- .o the ripper end of the lever 111', 1s-at' tached one end of a. link 122, the other end of the said link beingconnected to one end of a bell-cranklever 123, ivoted on the arm- On the outer end of the lever- 125, which is bent as shown in Figs. 13 and '14, is adjust-ably attached a shield 126, the slot 127 and screws 128"servmg as means for ad'usting the same. The parts just describe 122 to 123 inclusive may be.said. to constitute the means intermediate the".barring mechanism and thefeeding mechanism which is cont-rolled by the barring or ton-hole. v

In tlllSJllitChlllQit'llG length of th'bhttonhole is determined by the ation of the feeding mechanism after-the arring of the first end .of the bntton-hole has been completed and before the barring of the finishing'fend of the button-hole is com: menced and the extent 'of'this feeding operation or the length of the button-hole is determiner} by the adjustment ofifthefievice mechanism into operatiop, the said barring mechanism is' idle during the binding of the sidesof the button-hole, as will be more fully understood from thedescription of the working of "thniachinew I ill now'describe the meansprovided inthe barring mebhanism during fitermediate the feeding niechamsm, and the barringgneehanimh whereby the latter is brought into engagement with the means for actuating it.

In the segment-gear 17, of the feeding mechanism, is formed a-concentric slot or way129, inj,which' one end of the trippingt'appet 1130, is located-and adapted to e a justed, as shown in Figs. 8, 9 and 10,the otherend of said tappet ext-ending radially, as

'shown' On the end of the cam-drum 99, is pivoted a tappet-lever 131, see Figs. 3 and 9, having extending ends .132 and 133. A slot. 134 isformed ,in'the end of the cam-d'rumQQ,

stitching of the end of-the-butlength of'the b ersee'Fig. 21,1 and in this slot is located a spring 135,- whic'h' is attached at one end to a pm 133' see Fig. 9, projecting from the'enIl-133 andlimits the movmem of ,the lever 1 31by reason of its-engagement with thn wall-oi as of the, lever 131, and at-i'ts-other .endiaat :1

said slot. The foregoing parts 129 to 134 inclusive may be said to constitute the means by which the-feeding mechanism trips or causes the barring mechanism to he engaged by its actuator.

The stop motion mechanism will now be descrihed. To the upper shaft of the ma chine 18 attached a wheel 136, next to which.

engage the portion 13$ of the wheel 137 and 1 press the said wheel into engagement with 'the'wheel 1256. To the lower end of the lever 139 is attached a spring 141 which normally tends to draw the lever 139 in the direction shown b the arrow see Fig. 4. A friction strap 14:? is suitably held to engage and clutch the wheel 136 when the lever 139 is operated by thespring 141. In suitable hearings in the arm of the machine. see Fig.

3', a shaft I43 lS mounted, to the rear end of which is attached a latch-arm 144 which is normally held in the position shown in Figs. 4 and 11 by means of a spring 144* one end of which is attached to the outer end of the said latch arm and the other end to the bed of the machine. The latch arm 144 is adapted to engage a stud 145 projecting horizontally from the lower end of the lever 135) more particularly seen in Figs. 11 and 12. To an arm extending horizontally from the lever 139 is attached the upper end of a chain 146 as shown in Fig. 4, the lower end of the said chain (not shown) may be operated in any usual manner to return the stop motion parts to their normal position which position is shown in Fig. 4. The said chain for example may be operated as shown by me in 111}"P1ien-t 653,938 issued July 17, 1900.

Parts 135 to 146 may be said to constitute the stop motion. v A

I will now describe the means by which the stop motion is tripped into action.

A small lever 147 is pivoted on and carried by the ra chet wheel 102 as seen in Fig. 11.

A slot 48 is formed in the ratchet-wheel 102, in which is located, a spring 149. one end of which is attached to the wheel 1t)2.aml the other end to a pin (not shown) carried by the inner end of the lever 14?. and which said pin projects into the slot 145. The spring 1-1!) normally draws the lever 147 into the position shown in l2.

and on the end of the same shaft. is loosely The lever 147 is so located and constructed that it at the proper time engages with the arm 146 and trips the stop motion into action.

- The operation of the stop motion and of the means for tripping it into action, will be explained in connection with the explanation of 'the working oi the machine.

The cam groove 100, in the ram 119 is so constructed that it holds the lever Ill, and the parts operated by it. in the position shown in Figsxl. '2. and 13. during the tacking of the ends of the button-hole, the cam during the said tacking makes one complete rotation less the extent ot one tooth of the ratchet wheel 10; The roller 113 at the lower end ol the lever 111, is in the curved position of the cam groove 100. and just at. the bottom of the same, when the said cam is at ltstt as it is during the stitching ol the sides ol the hole. The said curved portion is sullicienth' inclined to more the said lever a sutlicient extent to mahc he necessary change in the movement of the needle to produce lateral movement oi the same necessar for the over lapping ot the stitches at the ends ot the hole.

I will now describe the working of the machine.

The length oi the link 119, is suitably adably adjusted in the way 118 to properl v change the extent of the lateral movement of the needle, so as to give the extent of lateral movement to the needle desired tor the purpose ot barring the ends of the button-hole. In the present example ot my invention the movement oi the needles is such. that the extent oi lateral movement of the same is increased at the ends ol the button-hole. so that the stitches overlap and thereby reiniorce the stitching whe e the greater strength.

is desired, see Fig. 20.

If it is desired to reduce the teed of the work during the barring of the button-hole, the shield 126 is adjusted so as to limit the extent of the engagement of the pawl 9, with the teeth of the ratchet wheel 3, 101' example it the pawl 9 is lecding 4 teeth of the ratchetwheel 2. during the teed oi the work tor the stitching ot the sides 01 the buttonhole, and it is desired to reduce the extentof the teed ol the said work by one 1/4 then the shield .26 will be so adjusted as to limitto 13 teeth -the engagement ot the pawl'tl with the ratchet wheel 2.

The length oi the button-hole is determined by the tttljlblllltlli ot the tappet 1210, in the groove 1'25). For example when the tappet is adjusted as shown in Fig. 8. the machine will continue stitehing the sides oi the buttonhole longitudinally ot the same until the said tappet 130. engages tappct 132 and thereby turns the barring mechanism into action, see

Fig. 9.

The work carrier in the stitching of a button-hole always commences to move forward from a given pointer position under various adplstments in the length of the button-hole. At the begi1ming of a button-hole the lever 111, is in the position indicated in Fig; 2, and

5 the roller 113, is in the cam-groove 100 just opposite. the point in said cam-groove crossed by hne ZZ Fig.- 2, in the said cam, said barrmg'mechanism having operated to bar the fimshing end of a button-hole previously made when the machine was stopped. In

otherwords at the beginning of a button-hole the barring mechanism is in osition to bar Lthe first end of the button-ho e.

60 groove Fig. 2.

In the ordinary button-hole sewin machine, some kind or a friction device is always a lied to the feed. wheel to prevent undesira e movement'of the same. In my present invention as is' seen the spring 48 when themachine is in operation always exerts a yield- 'a'ng force on. the feed wheel in the opposite direction to its forward movement thereby preventing any undesirable movement of the wheel or the parts operated through it. Thus it is seen the force for reversing the work carrier is also utilized to prevent undesirable movements of the same and makes it unnecessary to apply any other friction to tie 'movement of the mechanism between, one carrier and the feed wheel. This construction always kee s the lost motion up in the parts between t 1e carrier and the feed wheel and insures a perfect feed of the work.

In the operation of the machine the presser bar 31, is raised by the attendant, and the work placed in proper position to be clamped after which the presser bar31,is lowered and A the work is securely clamped thereby in the work carrier. The machine is now started, and the barring of the first end of the buttonhole is commenced, and continued until the gap 108 in the teeth of the tacking ratchet 102 comes under the actuating pawl 97, when further movement of the saidwheel is arrested and the pawl .97 beats time in the said gap,

This movement. of the wheel 102 brings the the outer endof the said arm moves npwardly, thereb; moving the end of the hnk 66, nearer to the pivot 61- of the lever 62. This movement reduces the extent of the lateral movement of the needle 'to the amount '00 required for the stitching along the side's of This movement of the barring the hole. mechanism lowers the' link 125 so that the shield-at the end of the same, is disengaged from the pawl. 9, and the pawl now operates the wheel 2 to feed the work for the stitching along the sides of the hole, and this movement continues until the tapper 130 engages the end of the tappet lever 132 and through this engagement turns the-tacking ratchet a sufiicieutextent' to bring the first tooth across the gap' 108 into engagement with the actuating pawl 97, when the barring at the finishing end of the button-hole is chmpleted. The portion crossed by the line ;Z of the camgroove lOQ, in practice is so constructed that the parts operated by'it are not moved, during the turning of the said cam the extent necessary to bring the actuating pawl 97, into en agement withthe teeth of the ratchet whee 102.

The stop motion tripping tappet lever 147; is so located that when the barring of the finishing end of the button-hole is completed,

it engages the tripping arm 146, of the stop motion, and trips the stop motion into action,

at this point the barring mechanism has turned around, or in other words of the cycle of the movement of. the same has been used, barring -the finishing end of the buttonhole. It is thus seen that the barring mech anism is in operative position during the stitching of both ends of the button-hole, in

other words that the barring mechanism is constructed and adapted during a cycle of its movement, to bar both ends of the hutton-hole before going out of action, and that the said barring'mechanism goes out of action from its own movements, after barring the first end of the button-hole.

After the stop motion has stopped the 1113-- chine, the operator lifts the resser bar 31,

throughout the movement 0' chain 47 and.

the parts connected with the same asnli'icicnt extent to release the work, when this point has been reached the movement of the chain 47, causes the roller 43, to engage the bell-crank lever 39, and thereby move the clutch 12 so as to disenga e the cam from the clutching portion of the part 15, this movement releases the mechanism intermediate the clutch and the work carrier which latter is immediately returned to its initial position through the action of the spring 48. The return of the workcarrier takes place during the time the operator changes the" workfor the next button hole, and in less time than it takes for the said change, therefore no time is lost from the return of the ence to the said figure are so placed relatively to each other that a movement of the lever 139 by means of the chain 146 so that. the upper part of said lever moves in a direction opposite in that shown by the arrow on the upper part of the same, throws the stop mot-ion back into its normal position. The stop motion will not be again tripped into action until the barring ratchet 102 has again made a complete rotation, thereby trip the'stop- 'motion into action at the earliest possible momentafter the last stitch in the finishing end of the button-hole has been completed, so that the machine may be stopped before the. needle again reaches the 'work after the complctionof the said last stitch. For these and other reasons I have made & barring mechanism which operates much more rapidlvthan the feeding mechanism, and provided means whereby the said barring mechanism'trips thesaid stop motion into action.. The speed of the movement of the barring mechanism, relative to the speed of, the feeding mechanism will be understood, when it is remembered that the wheel 102 makes substantially a complete. rotation during the barring of the ends of the button-hole. In the ordinary buttonhole machines, the stitching of the sides of the hole, and the barring of the ends thereof, is done during a single rotation of a feed wheel.

I do not wish to be confined to the particular form of mechanismherein illustrated and described as it is evident that changes may be made in it without departing from the spirit of my invention. 7

One of themain objects of returning the work-carrier to its initial position, without making a button-hole during said return movement is to always finish the hole with the work in the same position so that an auto matic cutter may be conveniently used in connection with the same. It is evident that when a button-hole is completed during the movement of the work-carrier in one (ll? rection, and then another one completed during the movement of said carrier in an opposite direction that the work is in dili'crent positions at the finishing of each buttonhole so if a cutter is properly located to cut the hole in one of said positions it will not be properly located for cutting the hole in theot-hcr of said positions, unless the position of the cutter is changed or two cutters are provided. r 3

Starting the makingof a button-hole with the work always in the same position and finishing it with the work always in the.

I same position makes it convcnicnt for a number of well known cutter devices to be used in combination with the invention herein disshown in my Patent Number 658,578, issued September 25, 1900, and 674,176, issued May 14, 1901, may be uscd 'lhcre are a number of other advantages in commencing a button-hole always at a given point, finishing both sides of it simultaneously and completing it at a given point as has been seen from the drawings and the foregoing specification. And by returning the carrier automatically during the time that the. operator is changing the work to a position of commencing another button-hole loss of time is avoided.

\Vhile much of this invention is confined to a button-hole machine adapted to simultaneously stitch both sides of a lmtton-hole, it is obvious that it is not all confined to such a machine, and therefore many of the claims have not been limited to this kind of a ma chine.

The term barring mechanism used in the claims is to be understood to mean the mechanism by means of which the relative movement between the stitch formin mechanism and the work is changed ant controlled to make the stitches at the end of the button-hole. a

.lThatIclai1nasnew,is:

1. In combination in a button-hole sewing machine, a stitch forming mechanism for simultaneously stitching both sides of a button-hole, a feeding mechanism, a barring. mechanism, an actuatorseparate from the movement of the feeding mec-hanisin for operating said barring mechanism, and means adapting a part of the feeding mechanism to cause said actuator to operate said barring mechanism once to each complcte bllttOll-llOlC stitching operation of said machine.

2. A button-hole machine comprising a stitch forming mechanism adapted to simultaneously stitch both sides of a button-hole, a feeding mechanism, a barring mechanism having -a part that is adapted to move circularly, said part normally out of action, an actuator that'operates separatelyfrom the feeding mechanism, and means adapting said feeding mcchanis'nt to turn. said part into engagement with said actuator.

3. A button-hole machine comprising a stitch forming mechanism adapted to simultaneously stitch both sii'li's of a button-hole, a feeding mcclmnisnr comprising a feed wheel, a barring mechanism including a part adapted. to move circularly, an actuating dcvii c for intermittently moving said part, and

means adapting the feeding mechanism to hole machine comprising a out of action, a vibrating part'for actuating said barring mechanism, means adapting a part of the feeding mechanism to cause said vibrating part to actuate said barring mechanism separately from the feeding mechanism, a stop motion device, and means whereby said stop motion device is tripped into action from a moving part of said barring mechanism. V

5. The eombination in a button-hole machine having a stop motion mechanism, of a stitch formm mechanism for making the side stitches o a button-hole, a ratchet operated mechanism for moving the work to dis.- pose said stitches, a second ratchet mechanism that is operated separately from'said first ratchet operated mechanism, means adapt-ing said second. ratchet mechanism to change the stitch forming mechanism to make the end stitches of a button-hole, and means whereby the aforesaid stop motion mechanism is tripped 'into action from the movement of said second ratchet mechanism -6. A button-hole machine comprising a work support, a stitch forming mechanism adapted to stitchva complete button-hole during the movement of said work supportin one direction, a feeding mechanism for operating said work support, a cam :xdapted to change the stitch forming mechanism to make the end stitches of. said button-hole, means for operating said cam separately from said feeding mechanism, a stop motion mechanism, and means whereby said stop motion mechanism is tripped into action from the movement of said cam.

7. A button-hole machine comprising a work moving mechanism having a work clamp, means for positively moving said work clamp in one direction, a stitch forming mechanism adapted to complete the stitchm of a button-hole during the movement of said work clamp in said direction, means for openin said clamp, and .means whereby when the clamp is opened it is automatically returned to its initial position. p

8. A button-hole sewing machine comrising means for simultaneously stitching oth sides of a button-hole, a work-carrier includin a work clamp, means for operating said woi k carrier during the stitching of a buttondiolea device for automatically returnin said work clamp to its initial position after the completion of a button-hole, and means whereb -said device is tripped into action when said work clamp is opened.

9. A button-hole sewing machine adapted to simultaneously stitch both sides of a button-h leincluding two vertically reciprocating and laterally vibratin" needles, a work-carrier including a work 0 amp means for operating said work carrier during the stitching of a button-hole a device for automatically returning said work clamp to its init al position after the completion of a button hole, means whereby when said clamp is opened said device is tripped into action, and means for manually opening said work clamp.

10. A button-hole machine comprising a stitch forming mechanism, a Work moving mechanism including a work carrier ands feed wheel, a barring mechanism that is turned into action from the movement of said feed wheel, a stop motion device, means adapting said barring mechanism to trip said stop motion into action, and means for reversing the movement of said work carrier without reversing the movement. of the'bat ring. mechanism. 11. In combinationin a button-hole machine, a stitch forming mechanism for making the buttonhole stitches, a feeding mechanism, a barring mechanism including an intermittent circularly mo part which is operated separately from s d feeding mechanism, means for operating said barring mechanism at'a higher'rate cf speed than said feeding mechanism, a sto motion device, and means adapting apart of said barring mechanism to trip said stop motion device into action.

12. A button-hole'machin ':omprisin a vertically reciprocating and laterally vibrating needle, means for changing the extent of the lateral vibrations of said needle comprising a'lever that is periodically turned on its pivot,v a stop motion, and a connection between'said stop motion andsaid lever whereby the stop motion is tripped intoaction from the movement of the lever. 13. A button-hole machine comprisin a. stitch forming mechanism havinga plurafit of needles for simultaneously stitch ng bot sides of a but-ton hole, a work-carrier ads ted to cooperate with said stitch formin mechanism, a toothed rack carried by sai work-carrier, a gear wheel adapted to engage said rack, means :for actuating said gear wheel during the stitching of a button-hole and means adapted to reverse the movement of said gear wheel and thereby return said work-carrier to its initial position. a

14; In combination in a button-hole machine, a feed mechanism comprising a work carrier, means for operating said work-carrier comprising a toothed rack, a toothed wheel for engaging said rack, means foro'peratin'g said toothed wheel in one direction comprising a feed wheel, means for o crating said toothed wheel in the opposite ectibn comprising a spring and a. stitch forming mechanism having a lurality of needles adapted to cooperate with said work-ean'ier during the movement of the sameby said toothed wheel and simultaneously .stitch both sides ofa button hole. i

15. In combination in a button-hold saw-.

lit)

said needles, and means for moving said of said clutch being keyed on the said shaft ing machine, a feed mechanism comprising-a loo )ers laterally simultaneously with the latw orb-carrier, means for moving said workeral movements of said needles. 65' carrier longitudinally of a button-hole com- -20. In combination in a button-hole scwprising a toothed rack, and a toothed wheel ing machine, a feed mechanism comprising a J m engagement with it, a spring ada ted to device for clamping the work,'aieed wheel, a reverse the movement of said toothe wheel connection between the said wheel a l the .and thereby reverse the work-carrier to its clamp comprising a clutch, means for operat- 7o inititfleposition, means for turning s id ing the aforesaid clamp combined with means =tothed wheel against the action of said whereby when the clamp is opened the clutch 10 sprin and thereby move the work-carrier in is operated. Q I I one direction, and a stitch forming mechan- 21. in combination in a button-hole sewism having a plurality of needles for simuling machine, afeed mechanism comprising a taneously stitching both sides of 'a buttonwork-carrier; means for operating said workhole during the said movement in one direecarrier comprising a feed wheel attached to a 15 tion of the Work-carrier. shaft; a pinion loosely mounted on the said f 16. A button-hole sewing machine eomshaftfa clutch, one member of which is atprising a-work-carrier, means for operating tached to said pinion and a second member so said work carrier including a feed wheel, a of which is,- mounted on said shaft and adaptclutch intermediate said feed wheel and said ed to move longitudinally of the same; a .20 work-carrier, a stitch forming mechanism second shaft; a toothed segment attached to A I provided with a plurality of needles ada ted the second shaft; and a connection between to simultaneously stitch both sides of a utsaid toothed segment and the said ,workton-hole during the movement of said workcarrier. carr'er in one direction, and means for oper- 22. In combination in a button-hole sew- 25. atipk said clutch to release the work-carrier ing machine, a. feed mechanism comprising a fro the movement of the feed wheel when a feed wheel; and means for operating the said --butgon-hole, has been completed. teed wheel comprising the following ele- 1' .In combination in a button-hole maments; an operating pawl adapted to enchine, a feeding mechanism comprising a cir gage the feed wheel, a device to automatic- 30 cularly moving part, a starting device carally regulate the' engagement between the riedby said circularly moving part, a stitch pawl and the wheel, means for operating the forming mechanism, a barring mechanism said device comprising a cam, and means for that is normally out of action, means adaptautomatically bringing said cam into action 'ing said starting device to cause said barring at a predetermined point in the stitching of a 35 mechanism to act, a stop motion mechanism, button-hole. I and means adapting said barring mechanism 23. In combination in a button-hole sewto trip said stop motion mechanism into acing machine, a feed mechanism comprising :1. L00 tion. work-carrier, means for operating the said j' 18;In combination in a button-hole mawork-carrier comprising a ratchet wheel,

40 chine, a plurality of vertically reciprocating means for regulating the movement of the and laterally vibrating needles, a plurality said ratchet wheel comprising a second of loopers disposed to revolve in a horizontal ratchet wheel, and means for bringing the lane to cooperate with said needles, means said second ratchet wheel into action at a or revolving said loopers a plurality of times redctermincd point in the stitching of a 4-5 to each reciprocation of said needles, a barutton-hole.

rin mechanism adapted to control the lat- 24. In combination in a button-hole sew- "eraImovements of said needles for the barring ing machine, a feed mechanism comprising a y of r button-hole, and a work moving mechwork-carrier, meansior operating the said anism including a work carrier adapted to work-carrier comprising a feed. wheel, means cooperate with said stitch forming mechan for regulating the movements of the said ism and said barring mechanism so as to feed whed comprising a-ratchct wheel havcomplete a button-hole during the moveing a gap in the teeth thereof, an actuating J ment'of said work-carrier in one direction. pawl normally out of engagement with the a 19, In combination in-a-button-hole mateeth of the ratchet wheel, and mums for 55 chine, a work moving mechanism including turning the ratchet wheel into engagement g a work-carrier, two vertically reciprocated with the pawl.

and laterally vibrating needles disposed to 25. In combination in a button-hole scwsimultaneously stitch both sides of a buttoning machine, a feed mechanism comprising a hole (luring the movement of said work-earwork-carrier; a feed wheel and means for 60 rier in one direction, two loopersadapted to operating the same: a connection between revolve in a horizontal plane, means for rethe said feed wheel and the work-carrier,

volving said loopers twice to each thrust of comprising a clutch and a shaft, one member and thereby adapted to move longitudinally of the same, and a groove being formed in one extreme of the said clutch; a bell crank lever cooperating with the movable member of the clutch; a pinion and a connection between the pinion and the work-carrier; and means for operating the bell-crank lever.

26. In combination in a button-hole-sewmg machine, a feed mechanism comprising a work-carrier; and means for moving the said work-carrier comprising the following instrumentalities:-a shaft; "a toothed feed wheel attached to said shaft; means for operating the said feed wheel; a pinion suitably mounted; means intermediate the pinion and the shaft whereby the pinion is operated cm the move of the shaft; a second shaft;' a segment, the diameter of which is larger'than that of the pinion, mounted on said second shaft; a'second inion, the di ameter of which is less than t at of the segment, mounted on the second shaft; and a to thed rack'attache'd to the work-carrier and in engagement with the said second pinion.

27L Abutton-hole sewing machine comprising a stitching mechanism for simultanc ousl v binding both sides of a button-hole; a

'feeding mechanism including a work-carrier;

' rection longitudinally from the said slide, a screw 24 passing through the said projection, and the abu'tment 25'.

29. A button-hole sewing machine comprising a feeding mechanism, including a work-clamp, a clutch, and a feed wheel; means connecting the wheel and clutch; means connecting the clamp and clutch; and means for opening the clamp and clutch simultaneously and thereby rendering the feed wheel ineffective. i

30. In combination in a button-hole sewing machine, a feed-mechanism comprising a work-carrier and aclamp, a feed wheel, and a clutching device intermediate the feed wheel and the \\'ork-carrier; a device for opening.

the work clamp; and means whereby, when the said device for opening the said clamp is operated, the said clutch is opened.

31. In combination in a button-hole sewing machine, a feed mechanism comprising a work-carrier, a feed wheel and a clutching device intermedialte the feed wheel and the work-carrier; the link 44, the roller 43, and the bell-crank lever 38; the connection between the bell crank lever and the clutchin device, whereby the clutching members 0 the latter are disengaged when the link 44 is moved downward; and the spring for bringing the said clutching member again into engagement.

32.1n combination, a stitchformihg mechanism for simultaneously. binding both sides of a button-hole a feeding mechanism; a barring m chanism; a stop mechanlsm;

means for ac uating the barring mechanism mnan saw AHLL,

actuatin the stop mechanism from the barring mec ianism.

33.- A button-hole sewing machine comprising stitch forming mechanism; a feedingmechanism including aclutch, acloth clamp and means for holding the latter normally open; a bar normallybearing upon theclamp for closingthe same; means connectmg the bar and clutch; and a device for 0peratmg the connect-mg means to open the clutch and permit theclamp to automatically open.

34. Abutton-hole machine comprising a stitch forming mechanism, a feed wheel, a barring mechanism, a cam for operating said barring mechanism the axis of which is in line with the axis of the'feed wheel, means for periodically operating said cam, a stop motion mechanism, and means whereby said stop motion mechanism is tripped into action from the movementof said cam.

35. A buttonhole machine comprising a stitch forming mechanism, a feed mechanism inclhding a feed wheel and a work carrier, 21-

barrin mechanism, a clutch device intermediate the feed wheel and the work carrier, a stop motion mechanism and means intermediate the stop motion mechanism and the barrin mechanism whereby the former is tripped into action by the latter.

36. A button-hole machine comprising a stitch forming mechanism adapted to simultaneously stitch both sides of abutton-hole, v

a feeding mechanism comprising a circularly! moving part, a starting device carried bv said circularly movin part, means for adjust-in said starting evice around the axis of sai circularly moving part, a stop motion device, and means intermediate the same and said starting device whereby the stop motion said intermediate means. 1

37. A' butt-on hole machine comprising a. stitch forming mechanism, a feeding mechanism having a feed wheel and a gear wheel, a

is tripped into action from the movement of barring mechanism including an intermittently rotating wheel tlmtis normall out of sigiicrl at New Yorkin thefcounty of New actioiy'an adjustable part carried y said York and Sta-t0- of New York thisfifteenth' gear wheel adapted to 'turn said. barring 5 f December A.D.-19!)0. 1 mechanism wheel into -action, a stop motion WILLlAM N. PARKES device, and means operated from the move- \Vitnsses:

.ment of said barnng mechanism wheel for R. C. BOSWELL,v

tripping said stop motion into action. i Jonx P. CQ'HALAN. 

